Nestled near the corner of Dean Street and Old Compton street is
a new lesbian-run Japanese eatery with a difference. Sticking to a
formula of a simple, limited menu and no-nonsense organic and
biodynamic wines, locally-sourced (Hackney and Bermondsey!) beers
and a few Japanese numbers as well as a refreshingly original
selection of soft drinks, owner Emma Reynolds has created a totally
chilled (and easy on the wallet) ramen joint where you can linger
or leave as soon as you get your delicious order.
We sampled a selection of veggie and vegan dishes (don't worry,
meat eaters are very well catered for, too) including tofu hiya
yakko, delicious silken tofu, spring onion with bonito flakes,
spinach and sesame salad (pictured) made from spinach, bean shoots
and Tonkotsu's special house sesame dressing. Of course a ramen
joint would be nothing without dumplings, so we had our collective
arms twisted and tried the shitake and bean shoot gyoza dumplings
with hot chilli oil. Finally, we supped a steaming hot bowl of miso
and Shimeji mushroom ramen.
As you can see from the photo we've included here, the decor is
low-fi and in keeping with the 'street-food' vibe. Tonkotsu is the
name of the restaurant's signature dish, the pork ramen. It
actually translates as 'pork bones' but don't let that put you off!
Says Reynolds: "It's great to open the doors of Tonkotsu after a
year of trialing recipes and we're very excited to be amongst the
diverse and lovely people of Soho."
Special DIVA reader offer: Monday to Wednesday a ramen and
a beer for £10, 12-3pm (Saving of over 20%).
Photo: Senthil Sukumeran