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COOKIES & PRIVACY POLICY

Restaurant review: Tsuru-sushi

Superlative sashimi and salted edamame worthy of crossing London for courtesy of lesbian co-owner Emma Reynolds

Jane Czyzselska

Wed, 10 Aug 2011 13:16:25 GMT | Updated 1 years today

Scientists say they are now able to calculate the formula for happiness. I reckon they came up with it when they were chowing down on a plate of salmon sashimi at London's freshest Japanese restaurant chain, Tsuru. Everything about it is quite literally mouthwatering: the sweet, tangy taste, the velvety texture and, crucially, the temperature, combine to make this famous Japanese staple exquisite fayre at Tsuru.

 

I first came across Emma Reynold's Tsuru-sushi chain of restaurants when she hosted a London Gay Women's Network event last month at Tsuru's newest Mansion House branch. There, among a bustling throng of gay women from the city, the arts and other noble professions, we drank and grazed on the tastiest morsels, from picture-perfect urumaki to their (locally sourced, no doubt) Borough chocolate brownie. Heaven. I loved it so much I decided to meet co-owner Emma in the Bishopsgate branch for lunch a couple of weeks later. Sitting in the summer sun under an umbrella in the heart of the financial district, I couldn't help but feel relieved that I wasn't at the neighbouring eaterie Pret, noshing on a soggy, doughy wrap.

 

Emma set up the chain in November 2007 with friends Kensuke and Jon who share her fanatical interest in food and ethical business. Kensuke's mum and grandmother are to be thanked for the traditional Japanese dishes on the menu - chicken yaketori and nasu dengaku to name but two. Sustainability is a shared value of all three owners which means ensuring that food is locally sourced where possible, their tuna line-caught and their sake bought from boutique sake company.

 

Name-checked in The Sunday Times' Style magazine last year as the poster-girl for enterprising, successful lesbians, Emma modestly blanches at this reference but admits that it seem to increase custom in the following week. "Everyone from city boys to professional mums came in to check us out," she grins. Not one to rest on her laurels, Emma and her business partners are always looking at ways to diversify the brand. Currently Tsuru offers sushi-making and sake tasting classes and Emma's also dreaming up a few quirky pop-up and women's events in the coming months. Happiness indeed. Watch this space!

 

www.tsuru-sushi.co.uk

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